Heating Service in Dalton

The cost of a furnace installation is dependent on several factors including the type of furnace being installed, how much extra work is involved, and how large of a furnace you’ve chosen. Your home may also have two units which may raise the cost of a furnace replacement in Dalton.

A no-heat call is an industry term referring to a customer with a complete lack of heating power. This is one of the most common calls we get for heating repairs in Dalton. Their furnace, boiler, or heater is producing no heat whatsoever for one reason or another. Because these scenarios can be uncomfortable, especially in Dalton's cooler seasons, we prioritize these appointments on our schedules.

It’s time for the vacation of a lifetime! Just you and the Outback for the next three weeks. No more annoying GA winter to deal with. During that time, the last thing you want to think about is your home’s heating system. Some people turn off their furnace or boiler before they leave, but this is the wrong approach. Allowing your home to get too cold could not only burst pipes but damage appliances, walls, and photos.

To both save on costs and protect your home, you’ll want to set your thermostat at around 55 degrees, a little warmer if you have pets. Just don’t forget to set your thermostat to ‘vacation’ or ‘hold’ before you dance your way out the door.

Is one of your bathrooms freezing and the other too hot? Heat inconsistencies like this are often the result of airflow problems. Blocked vents, improper heating system design, and leaky ductwork are often to blame. While you can try to DIY a fix like this, it’s often better to leave the fixing to an Dalton HVAC specialist. Call (706) 226-1303 today and let Clean Heating and Air even things out.

First, this is an acronym that stands for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. This rating tells you how effectively a water heater, furnace, or boiler converts its fuel into heat. The higher the number, the more efficient a heating system is. This number is reached by dividing the unit’s annual energy output by its input. The government sets acceptable minimum AFUE standards for equipment subject to periodic review and change.

The AFUE is one example of an efficiency rating. Other common ones include the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER), heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF), and energy efficiency ratio (EER). Regardless of what measurement is used, these ratings all have one job. They tell you how well a heating system heats a space and how much energy it uses.

Which fuel source is best for your home depends on several factors. We’ll briefly compare the two fuel sources across a variety of characteristics:

• Air Quality: Electric heating systems provide better air quality than their gas counterparts.
• Safety: No flammables or gasses means less risk to your family.
• Speed: Gas heaters generally reach temperature quicker.
• Extreme Weather: If your power’s knocked out by winter weather, electric furnaces can’t function. Gas units can still provide warmth.
• Lifespan: Electric furnaces in Dalton last slightly longer than gas ones.
• Maintenance: Gas furnaces require more maintenance overall.
• Cost: Electric heaters are less expensive to install but cost more to operate.

A lot of homeowners think that closing off vents saves energy. But it doesn’t. In fact, this attempt at energy-saving can:

• Cause undesirable pressure changes in your ductwork
• Lessen overall heating system efficiency
• Worsen existing air leaks
• Aid mold growth due to misdirected warmth
• Result in heat exchanger damage

Instead of shutting vents, open doors between rooms. If the issue is a room being too hot—and you haven’t zoned your home—you can slightly close the vent.

Most modern furnaces can’t be set above 90 degrees. This safety measure protects the system by preventing long cycles and overheating. This protects vital components like the heat exchanger. Your heating system likely has a high-limit switch as an additional safety measure. If it detects the furnace's interior is too hot, it will shut the unit off. Most Dalton HVAC experts recommend setting your thermostat no higher than 78 degrees.

Single-stage heating systems, typically older or more economical, only have one level of heating output. While you can adjust the temperature on the thermostat, it doesn’t alter how hard the furnace works. To help boost efficiency, many modern furnaces are two-stage. This means they have a high and low output setting. The former is used on the coldest days to keep Jack Frost at bay. During more mild weather, the lower setting kicks in. These systems save energy and allow for more even heat distribution. Due to their flexibility, they’re also called modulating furnaces.

Hotter air can hold more moisture than cold air. So, as it cycles through your home, heated air will pull water from the environment. The combustion process can also lower your home’s relative humidity. It should also be noted that winter is often characterized by dry air. Consider installing a whole house humidifier in Dalton to make things more comfortable. These systems can be directly integrated with your furnace or heater.

Here’s a breakdown of the parts you’ll find in most heating systems in Furnace:

• Blower: This component pushes heated air from your furnace throughout the rest of the home. If this part breaks, you’ll notice the unit is on, but the vents aren’t active.
• Blower Motor: The blower motor powers the fan in the blower. Without it, the air wouldn’t reach more than a foot or two from the unit.
• Blower Chamber: That motor generates a lot of force and vibration. This box houses the two parts above and stabilizes them, stopping them from falling off course or rattling apart.
• Combustion Chamber: This area of the furnace holds the entire firing system. For safety reasons, it’s separate from the blower chamber.
• Heat Exchanger: This is one of the most important parts of a modern furnace. It’s how you get warm, safe air in your home. The gasses created by the ignition process are piped into the heat exchanger. The excess heat warms this part, transferring that energy to the air flowing outside the exchanger’s walls. Once drained of heat, the combustion gasses are sent out the flue pipe.
• Burner: Every furnace needs fire to kickstart the heating process. Oxygen meets gas or an electric spark at the burner, and the resulting flame kickstarts the whole heating process.
• Burner Cover: This small piece of metal covers the flame sensor, blower chamber, and ignitor. Its primary responsibility is keeping flames inside the furnace.
• Flame Sensor: This part is small but mighty. It detects when the burner catches fire. Typically, it does nothing but wait. If there’s an issue with the burner, however, the sensor will shut the unit off, preventing deadly carbon monoxide leaks.
• Ignition System: Older furnaces have pilot lights, which are always on and ready to start the system. Newer units—anything made after 2010—have an electronic ignitor. Unlike pilot lights, these systems can’t be blown out by a gust of wind, making them more fault-tolerant.
• Limit Switch: This sensor reads the temperature inside your furnace. If the unit gets too hot, it’ll shut it off. You can typically find the limit switch under the supply plenum. You may hear it referred to as a fan limit or furnace high limit switch.